Monday, November 22, 2010
November 22--one long thought...
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Conversation with Ram
We have a saying in the US: give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he'll eat for a lifetime. I think we can apply to education this way: teach a person to think, show them that their mind is hungry and you've enriched their being and the world for a lifetime. Today a student reaffirmed my commitment to teaching and showed me that this was true. We had a question posted to our discussion board--what does it mean to be an American? Indian? The students posted responses and one of my kids here found me today to share his experience. As he read the responses he reflected back to how little he felt that he knew about his own culture. He started to search for more information about his history, his government and society. He read comments by one of his classmates--she suggested that the American students should see a list of films she provided. The student responded that he felt that film was limited and began to search for other art forms. His search went on into the evening and into the next day when he found me sitting at a table in the library. He gushed about how his experience and what he found as well as how the questions had prompted so much thinking on his part--he did admit that he didn't think he'd ever be able to fully answer the question but that it would keep him thinking. He also stated that he was so happy to be in IB and that it was sort of silly that only the IB kids should be exposed to these ideas. The spark was there. Thanks, Ram.
This whole experience in India has been in someways so not about the project (sorry Lamese, Meredith and Maggie). It's been so intensely personal--spiritual in parts, lots of self-knowledge, all balanced by the intellectual and vocational insights. Today it finally hit me thought that in this process of reflection and introspection I realized that I am going to be gone in a few weeks. When I look at my students I feel a pang of sadness. As a teacher we say hello only to say good-bye in a few months. I should be better at it or at least I shouldn't be surprised or that it shouldn't affect me emotionally now. There was a more senior teacher at my school in Minnesota who commented that once I had been there longer I'd get over it. But it still does pull at my heartstrings. Perhaps this was like my experience in Edinburgh--another place where I cut my teeth, learned about myself and that makes all the relationships more intense and meaningful...I can wrap my mind around it but can't quite buy it. I'm going to miss Chennai and everyone I've met: Sudha and my Madras Mom, Lyola, Suyash and his family, Cheryl, Venkat, Br. Rishi, Vidya, Veena, Anil, Prema, Nivas, Praveen, Pratik, Angie, Naresh, Mohan, Boopity, Shiva, Padmila, Meena, Ashish, Kiti, Marcus, Bindu, Sajit, Nidhi, Santosh, my students.... Thanks for so much.
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Thoughts about teaching and purpose...
I think this is the first picture of a person that I've included on this site. It was taken at a pooja and I am ridiculously, deliriously happy in that moment. The man seated next to me is the school's IB coordinator. We had just finished two intense days of meetings, class sessions, trainings and interviews--and I was electrified. Dancing at the pooja was unbelievable--just added to the whole experience. That night as I drove down from the hills and could smell the rain, lotus and jasmine I was physically exhausted and content. All of my senses and my mind felt awake and alive but settled, calm, at peace. Thought about this for some time--during the odd moments of quiet. Lots of incomplete thoughts, some ideas to test out, some dreams and plans potentially... Trying to make sense of all that's happened here, all the conversations, the relationships, the things I've seen.
Yesterday as I was being driven to school I passed a woman standing by the side of the road. She wasn't old but life and the years had taken a toll on her. You could see it in her face and posture--you could almost feel the weight of her cares. Across the street, children played in a school yard. I was struck by the woman's face in this moment of juxtaposition--in the lines the face of the young girl she once was could be seen. Maybe it was her features that jogged my memory--picturing someone from long ago--or maybe it was the longing I thought I saw in her eye as she gazed across the road to the kids running and laughing. In that moment it was pure compassion. Adult life catches us so quickly--and for some kids their childhood is awfully abbreviated--so who are we as teachers to so readily deal out the hard lessons? This woman certainly seemed to have had her share. What about the girl she was? Were people kind? Did anyone see her potential? Can we see the individual not as a mass of behaviors or a piece of our own task-list or fulfillment but as a human being, perhaps even at one point a child who needed to laugh and be accepted and feel competent? The world has so many hard edges, do we add to the number or provide solace? Are we really present in the moment and see the person in front of us as a human being or do we react from what we think we are, all of our concepts of our identities and defenses? Are our responses all about us and our egos as opposed to the situation and what needs to be done? Lots of questions--perhaps there is value in just asking them and reflecting on them without arriving at a set answer. Maybe it really is the question that enlightens and not the answer (paraphrasing Eugene Ionesco).
I know from my own experience that it is so easy to get wrapped up in the urgency of work and to lose sight of what really is important--I've left a swath of wrecked relationships due to my own shortsightedness. Maybe this is the change that India has brought? Finally some clarity--took 12,000 miles to break some cycles and look in the mirror. Picking up and leaving my family back in the states wasn't easy to do and adapting to new culture is both invigorating and frustrating. Living here is not as easy, and I see many people suffering and piecing together a pretty mean existence. However, I am so happy here. When I am with my students I feel exhilarated. It's like I had to leave in order to make contact with what I was really about. Get rid of the old patterns, the institutional routine and relationships to really examine what on earth is really important. Having some great feedback from schools, colleagues and kids hasn't hurt either. I don't really need to prove anything anymore. I found contentment and identity. I can be in this moment fully without attaching any of the baggage that I was carrying around before. I love to compete in triathlon, but I have wondered why I was driven so hard to place. Was it really about proving myself more than the adrenaline rush? Did any of my students care if I was in the top 10 or top 1000? Did it improve anything in my relationships with them as their teacher? Does my daughter care? Will she ever? Does it make me a better dad? My heart feels more at ease now. Krishnamutri wrote to the effect that once you find the true self then work is not work but a clear path of appropriate action. Once the narrative you build for yourself is tamed and you can be in the moment, then you can truly be at peace and do what is necessary with ease. I still want to get my doctorate, but it's not a defining drive or desire for status anymore. Never confuse the moment and what is about with what you think you are all about.
Thursday, October 28, 2010
I yell at autorickshaw drivers...
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Rotary Speech--October 26, 2010
Introduction and DAT program
Namaskar, Vanakkam, Hari om--
En per Douglas Kennedy. En oor Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States. Enge veede Alwarpetle, Chennai irukke. Enakku Tamil konjambadhaan theriyum.
My name is Douglas Kennedy and am a Distinguished Fulbright Award in Teaching grantee based here in Chennai. My capstone project is entitled “Theory of Knowledge as a Bridge for Cultural Understanding.” I come from Minnesota, where the snow will be flying in a couple of weeks and will be hip deep in a month. Here are some pictures of my town—it’s a very green place with lakes both in and surrounding the city, lots of walking and bike paths (later ski trails in the winter). People live outdoors in the summer—mainly because winter lasts for six months—you’ll see families boating, biking and playing sports together. The Mississippi River runs through it as well. I’m as you can see a proud family man. My wife and I have been married for 14 years and we have a 5 year old little girl who is crazy about animals, books, dragons, beautiful dresses and swords. My family will be joining me here very soon. We’ll be pulling my daughter out of her International Baccalaureate school and my wife will be taking a leave from her job to come and experience south India. My daughter Madeleine is particularly excited about seeing elephants and a beach.
A little background on my program and we’ll get into the project—the Fulbright program I am part of is new and is only in its second year. For the 2010-11 school year, 12 highly qualified US teachers were chosen to undertake research projects in India, South Africa, Finland, the UK, Argentina, Mexico and Singapore. 17 international teachers were also selected and are presently studying and housed on the University of Maryland campus. Projects for all of us range from the use of toys in physics instruction, application Vedic mathematic principles to my project on cultural understanding.
Background
This project is a crossroads on a journey that started 6 years ago with a novel. In my Theory of Knowledge classes, the students read Robert Pirsig’s Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—a popular book in the 1970s that many of their parents read. The book is interesting for a couple of reasons. First, the author wrote the book in Minneapolis and his many motorcycle rides took him around the lake where most of my students live—they recognize the landmarks. Second the book raises some interesting questions about knowledge—the differences between the artistic mind and the scientific, Eastern vs. Western, emotion and intuition as opposed to reason and rationalism. Many of the students have not questioned the bases of knowledge—for example, the science that the learned from their elementary years was Truth, with a capital T, timeless and unwavering in its certainty. They read this book and suddenly their world is in flux. It’s like the solid ground under their feet suddenly started to shift. Most students find the book a challenge and intriguing, especially after we dissect and discuss it. All these questions are now swimming through their heads and they see that this class is going to be different. Two questions really stick with them.
The first question deals with identity and I start every year with it. On day one of class I ask “Who are you and how do you know it?” The course is often referred to as intellectual narcissism—perfect for 17 and 18 year olds, they get to think and talk about their favorite topic, namely themselves. However this question stumps them. The body and mind they’ve owned or inhabited for their entire lives now is being looked at in a different ways. They talk about their physical characteristics, their gender, their birth certificates, parents. By and large the responses are pretty shallow—they haven’t had to think about this topic. I up the ante by following it with “Why should you care about this question if at all?” Now the quizzical looks begin, some stock answers and borrowed wisdom (a couple say “Know thyself” of “To thine ownself be true” but can’t really say why it’s important). We turn to the text for guidance. In the book, two narrators lodged in the same body compete for the reader’s attention and control over the narrative. The students begin to question: who is the narrator? Is he sane? How would he know? Who deems whether an individual is sane or not? Which voice is credible? The pieces start to click together.
The other question that arises is about culture and knowledge—the baggage that the we all carry around with us but may not necessarily be conscious of until we travel abroad. The author studied Oriental philosophy at Banaras Hindu University in Varanasi. The experience had a tremendous impact on the author and it marks the beginning of a transformation in his thinking (quote on p. 141). The passage later goes on to talk about how these ideas would stick with him. The narrator who was dominated by logic alone starts to wonder about the roots of his knowledge and the limits of it. In essence he is questioning the underlying assumptions and beliefs of his knowledge, the cultural components. How can different views exist about truth? Why is reason so entrenched in the West? This questioning, according to the narrator at least, leads to him being deemed insane. The personality or the side of the narrator that sought to find the limits of reason and reconcile Eastern and Western knowledge is eradicated by electroshock therapy. I don’t want to ruin the book for anyone, there are a couple of interesting twists and turns in the rest of the novel, but you’ll have to find out what happens next on your own. I know they have the book at Landmark (an engineering friend of mine just purchased a copy two weeks ago). The students at this point start to wonder about what ideas and beliefs they haven’t examined, and why they see the world the way they do.
It was my students who pushed me. I wanted to do a better job teaching this novel so I started to read—first a companion to the novel, then Eastern philosophy. The students wanted to know more about the local connections and many of them had seen the Zen Center on one of the lakes in the city and had questions about connections to the novel. I sent out e-mails asking if anyone knew about the context of the novel or would be willing to be a community expert on the book or Zen beliefs and practice. A former college professor answered my query. Erik it turned out was Pirsig’s friend and one of the founders of the Zen Center along with the author. He knew the book well and many of the stories associated with it. He comes each year to speak to the classes about the author, its context in history and then takes them through a Zen meditation session. From conversations with Erik, I pursued a course in Zen meditation and philosophy and even began to meditate at his house. I learned a lot, but still I felt like I could do better at walking the walk as we say. Had I really examined what I knew and what lay behind these ideas and concepts? Had I modeled appropriately the curious mind or what it means to critically examine ideas?
Wondered about the course as well—what was the purpose? What were the outcomes for this international curriculum and why put a course like ToK in the center of it? I had my own opinions about it, but I knew that perhaps these were laden with some assumptions. As these questions, both from the novel and my, I guess we could call them meta-thoughts, thoughts about my thinking and teaching craft the idea for this project were devised. I wanted to see how the course was taught in a setting much different from mine, if possible in settings where cultural values were explicitly part of the mission or curriculum. I wanted to talk to teachers and administrators about how they saw the course and its purpose. More importantly I wanted to connect my students to the experience so they could learn. This latter part also stemmed from my students’ lack of knowledge about India but also a more idealistic place as well. I believe it is far more difficult to misjudge or misunderstand someone if you know them. Hate is built out of ignorance and peace is a product of understanding and the ability to empathize with another. I see my students as the future leaders in the world—they go to Ivy League schools, emerge as business executives and researchers. The world, as Thomas Friedman has successfully penned, is flat and our students will come into ever increasing contact with people different from themselves. I wanted to help ensure that the future would be in good hands—even if it was in some small way, I wanted to do something. To not, given my capacity, was ethically irresponsible.
The project
The project has 3 components: site visits, online platform for discussion and assignments or the curriculum piece, assessment of learning. Ideally, and this is still in the works, an exchange program between schools will result. For the American students this would take place in the late summer or early fall, and for the Indian students this will take place in May (they thought this would be a great time to be in a cooler climate).
The site visits are to gather data about other IB programs and their approaches to teaching Theory of Knowledge. While at the sites, I interview principals about the nuts about bolts of their program, their vision for the role and placement of ToK. I also interview the ToK teachers about more curriculum specific items such as how they address self-knowledge and culture. For some of these schools, like Chinmaya, the cultural component is an explicit part of the school vision and program. The question then becomes, what is the outcome of the program and how do you balance seemingly competing interests? While at the schools I also conduct teacher training sessions on Theory of Knowledge, writing workshops, teach and observe ToK classes and interview groups of students about their ToK experience. The site visits help formulate a spine of sorts to my project—models for how different schools approach the curriculum. I also visited non-IB schools that address the cultural issue or that utilize alternative approaches—schools like The School and the Isha Home School. I have also met with teacher training programs to see how Indian teachers are prepared. Again, all of these provide a grounding in the structure and variety of education in-country.
The next component is the work being conducted right now with the students at M. Ct. M. Chidambaram Chettyar International School. In conjunction with the Theory of Knowledge teacher at M. Ct. M., an online platform was set up to connect students here with my students in Minnesota. Each student has a profile post with their picture and a short writing assignment to introduce them to the rest of the group. The website also has a place for students to post photos, links, an online assignment drop box and a discussion board where they can respond to questions and each other’s writings. Right now we are incorporating themes about culture and cultural adaptation to our classroom work in order to get the students to think about the things that make them who they are and how these influence knowledge claims. The students will be responding to questions like:
• Examine the ToK diagram—the knower is in the center, why?
What can we know about ourselves?
Sources?
Types of evidence?
Is the knowledge reliable? Why/not?
Are the sources reliable? Why/not?
• IB is an international curriculum—what does that mean?
• How do societies value the individual?
What about groups, like families or tribes?
What are the gender roles?
What about familial roles?
What is the relationship of the individual to society?
• How does the past influence the present?
What are the big events or who are the significant players and how they
fit into the consciousness?
Additionally, the students will be working on readings and participating in seminars to help them push their thinking about what can be known and the influence of culture such as Plato’s Allegory of the Cave, Ryunosuke Akutagawa’s “In a Grove” (and the film by Akira Kurosawa “Roshomon”) and an excerpt from Pirsig’s novel about ghosts. Periodic smaller assessments will be added to help the students identify knowledge issues and to shore up weaknesses.
Their final assessment will be a knower’s profile. This consists of a paper or portfolio (could also be a presentation) that answers the following questions
• What are the sources of our knowledge?
May consider parents, culture, race, school, friends, books,
media, authorities…
Sources must be explained—what knowledge do they give us?
• Why do we trust them?
Responses require explanation for why we consider the source trustworthy
• Where do these sources get their knowledge? Where does it come from?
And by extension, this implies my knowledge
May want to consider traditions, beliefs, prophets, holy books, primary
sources, teachers, the media…
• What are some of the knowledge issues that arise?
The assessments will be graded based on the level of reflection that goes into their responses and attention to the implications of their points. The papers and the online responses will be analyzed for changes over time in the students thinking—how well do they see themselves at the beginning of the unit, versus the end, for example. Ideally, the connections that the students build up over the year from the online component (discussions and presentations over Skype will be undertaken after I return to the US) will facilitate an exchange of students where they can really interact. Meeting face to face is different than writing on Facebook or our site. Just the amount of time together provides an opportunity to continue the discussions and really get to know the people who were on the other side of the Internet connection. There’s something profound about breaking bread together or the pride that comes in sharing your home that deepens the connection and understanding between people.
To close this evening, I wanted to share two quotes with you that helped motivate me as I’ve encountered stumbling blocks and doubt along this journey. Both were cited in a book I just finished, AJP Abdul Kalam’s Ignited Minds—
“Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. Begin it now.” (Goethe)—from the chapter on Visionary Scientists and Teachers
“Men often become what they believe themselves to be. If I believe I cannot do something, it makes me incapable of doing it. But when I believe I can, then I acquire the ability to do it even if I didn’t have it in the beginning.” (Mahatma Gandhi) –from the chapter on Role Models
I dream about a world for my daughter where conflict, poverty and disease are handled by a community of individuals who can put understanding first and divisions second. This is a starting point for my contribution to that vision. Thank you for letting me speak with you this evening. Pranams. I believe we have some time for questions.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Culture questions and self-knowledge
Phone is sick and in surgery in Bangalore, spent 4 hours (plus one other person doing the same) with customer help, felt sick—no sleep for weeks, night sweats—still not much help on the ground here. I feel fine now.
Culture
What is it and what defines it? Can talk about the easy stuff—the institutions, the food, the traditions. However, the role of it inside the individual and how it affects their outlook and life is a wholly different matter. We usually see culture when it is in collision—trying to understand why the standard for punctuality is different, for example—but rarely do we take a look at our own culture as the source or at the very least a contributor factor, of that collision. It seems that this lack of awareness of our selves leads to conflict, but we lack the ability or practice to see what we are and then make reasoned and clear-minded comparisons. Perhaps this is best seen as the difference between a reaction and an exchange or conversation. The latter leads to understanding—there is a reference point (the self), the ability to or platform to ask a question (conversation), and perhaps then an implied openness to see difference and experience it—the former, misunderstanding and confusion or frustration and even aggression.
So here’s the problem—where do you get the self-knowledge? Where do you learn to understand who you are and what makes you you? We are taught in social studies classes about our history and government, but that seems to be without the necessary reflective component. Sometimes values are talked about, but how is this made to be personal—where does the culture meet the person and how does it resonate or fill them?
When we travel and live abroad, we encounter things that are different and our colleagues look at our behavior and mannerisms and try to make sense of them (is this a boor or just an American—where does the culture end and the person begin?). It’s in this collision that some of what makes our culture apparent—the housekeeping staff’s horror at my reaching for the trash bin under my sink or fetching towels out of my bathroom, my hosts insistence that I sit at the table and not move an inch and allow myself to be waited upon, my reaction at how societal superiors treat those beneath them…
The value that all men are created equal resonated with my sense of justice when studying the American Civil Rights Movement, but I didn’t realize how ingrained it was—a part of my culture and identity—until I came to India. This value of mine bumps up against some cultural and historical obstacles—but I had to think about why it was painful or confusing to see. This reflection—thinking about what it means to be an American—helped me to digest what I was seeing rather than just being horrified or repulsed. It is neither good nor bad--this is not for me to decide--it is different and needs to be understood. It’s the value judgements--repulsion or rejection--that leads to problem like stereotyping (“such and such culture is barbaric…look how they treat x!”) and even conflict. I've started reading more about India--Abdul Kalam's autobiography and Ignite Minds, Sen's The Argumentative Indian: writings on Indian culture, history and identity.
So what makes a culture? What can we take away from situations where we react to differences? How do societies value the individual? What about groups, like families or tribes? What are the gender roles? What about familial roles? What is the relationship of the individual to society? How is property viewed? How are guests to be treated? How does the past influence the present? What are the big events or who are the significant players and how they fit into the consciousness? Which subjects are taboos? What about behaviors?
Stuck between two—range of things have been said to me: we’ll make an Indian of you yet, you are already mostly Indian, now you see the India beyond the exotic, my countrymen fall over themselves when they see white skin (present company excluded for insight? Am I “in” so you can tell me this, or is our friendship suspect?). So what does this mean?
Fulbright experience
Read an article about Greg LeMond today--was waiting for a haircut. He's a local guy in the western suburbs of Minneapolis (I see him occasionally skiing) who just happened to be the first American who won the Tour de France. Forgot that he had been shot in the back and won his second title with 37 shotgun pellets still in his back (including several lodged in his heart lining). This hunting accident also was followed by two surgeries to fix other issues like tendonitis in one of his legs. He was expected to maybe place in the top 20, but he won that year. I think that article was there for a reason--it's not the hardship that makes the person, it is the recovery. Even the small mishaps in our daily lives like a crap day at work or fender-bender or an argument with a loved one—it’s how we recover and what we do differently to show up for those that we care about and be the person we which to put forward. I really think this is what makes us happy—you really live for those whom you care about and must respect who you are. Human beings have an incredible capacity to remake themselves and to control their happiness to a large degree. I was worried about barking at a couple of friends as well as focusing on the negatives of this journey. I got so bogged down in the immediate problems and the stresses that I lost perspective of what was really important both for me personally and for this project. I had a steak and mango ice cream for dinner, then in the morning I made sure I meditated, a worked out, and had some talks with a couple of friends to apologize for being jerky. Recovery attained. The issues that had me bent out of shape were over (one is at least manageable—I hate Vodafone), my friends are still my friends and I am grateful for them, my trip has been an amazing experience. I learned. As a friend pointed out in an e-mail—remember, you are here which also means that someone else did not get the experience. One of my other friends commented that he lives sort of vicariously through my updates. It’s not that I have an obligation to these others to be superhuman, but it did help pull my head out of the mud and really look at the big picture. My wife has commented to co-workers about the conversations that have happened as part of this journey—they are stunned and amazed by them. I’ve seen temples and stunning wilderness, met interesting people, dined on amazing food and learned so much in such a short period of time. How can I be blue over the trivial? Ah, yes—life lesson learned.
In one a text message frenzy today a friend wise friend who has been my guru and patient listener wrote “…if the big things feel like they are not happening, the emptiness and small things have a lot of potential.” When I was in Pondicherry I went through a bout of pretty profound traveler’s melancholy and could feel myself withdraw. This experience in India has had frustrations with housing, some isolation (I arrived, made friends, set up a routine and then we had a 3 week vacation), some issues with my grant and difficulties getting access to research sites. So what do I take away from this experience so far? Well, maybe not to sweat the small stuff as much. I have a choice—explore and realize my time is limited here or hide in my routine and miss out. With the small stuff, I can’t let my irritation get the best of me—I know that I was not good about this at MHS especially as department chair. I let other people’s issues weigh on me and I ruminated over and over about things. I really only hurt myself. I’ve learned to be a lot more outgoing—not really an issue before, but being several thousand miles from home does bring out the more gregarious side for some reason. Found that I am much more of a people person than I thought I was—and I’ve been much more open to others and what they have to offer. Some of this is probably from finally being able to emerge from the stress I had put myself under for the past 10+ years. Really thinking I don’t need to race anymore. I like the competition and maybe I’ll enter a few tris or ski races for that reason, but I don’t really have to prove anything to anyone. I don’t think it made me a better teacher or a better husband or a better dad. It just made me busier and added some stress. Why add more? The other thing that has been made very apparent is how this trip has solidified my place in teaching. In an unfamiliar place, the students are the constant or the connection to what my life in the US was like—they are familiar and grounding. My best moments here have been when I have been with kids or see a student of mine on the street. I’ve been welcomed by other schools and recognized for good work—this helped ease some of the self-doubt and pressure I had been putting on myself for a long time. Teaching last year—especially the ToK classes—was fun. But this feels different. It’s a lightness of being. It seems to hit the big aspects of my being and the work or extra time is not effort it is just done because I can do it. When I was in Pondi, I heard about a former student that was having a rough go with homesickness. This was the time that I was experiencing it myself—traveling by myself, missed my daughter, just coming off some drama, needed routine—and I had just had an amazing conversation with my sister about how she dealt with the same symptoms when she travels alone on research. I sent the student and e-mail talking about my experience and extended an offer to talk if she wanted it. It was not a question of time; it was not a question at all. I had the capacity or ability so it is done.
I seem to have come half-way around the world to learn more about myself as I study how others teach others about learning about themselves (deliberately scrambly). There are a couple of people reading this blog who are probably grinning (do I detect a smugness?) when they read this. I am different now. I’ve perhaps got a better sense of my identity, the meaning of fulfillment and the ability to let go.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Pondicherry--October 11
Took a break from scrambling on building connections for my project and destressing from a housing incident--the second one since I got here. I have moved to a different place and hopefully everything will work out. May have been an innocent mistake, but my trust and privacy were violated--had to leave. I have wonderful friends here, though--they really rallied around me and helped. The saying is that "the guest should be treated as a god" and I can't believe the outpouring of support and help that people I barely know offered. India can be a difficult place to experience--the travel books mention it, but really nothing can get you ready for this country of contrasts. Beautiful one minute, brutal the next, but it's the people who make the experience. I think as Westerners, and I include myself in this, we get really hung up on the material things. I have a friend here whom some of my other friends refer to as my "Madras Mom"--but she's the perfect exammple. Usha and I know each other based upon an initial e-mail exchange to Fulbright alums living in Chennai and a friendship was built--we've had dinner, gone to arts perfomances. But the difference is that she checks up on me all the time--when I get on a travel she checks to make sure I am ok on the train or bus (she even wished me a good night), she offers advice when I experience "traveler's melancholy" and homesickness for my family, she listens to my stories about my project. For what? Alot of people have said that India changes you--and I think this could mean a lot of different things based on your experience. To me, I've see the poverty, I've learned alot about spritituality (different than religiosity--big difference) and I've seen places of amazing beauty, but the thing I've learned most about is friendship. Here in Pondi there are a lot of Westerners (mind you this means I've seen more than 2 in a given span of time) --we see each other walking down the streets by the cafes and shops or by the beach. Sometimes there's a nod, but little conversation--a reserve or coldness that I think is just us (big exception is the French restaurant owner I keep bumping into--Franciose--we just had lunch today and a long conversation over tomato salads, camembert sandwiches and Indian coffee). Maybe it comes back to the people here wanting to make guests feel comfortable so they really try to reach out to strangers, but I think it goes deeper. Maybe this comes back to a conversation I had with a man about the Indian mindset--there are so many problems that differences like religion matter less than finding another good person. It's these people that you rely upon to get through the day. I think my "Madras Mom" takes it even further. At the yoga retreat we had to think about what qualities make up the divine, and how we've seen these manifested in other people. I immediately thought about my wife of course--she's been my rock for 14 years, the rational part to my emotional personality (ok, I know any of my former students will laugh when they read that, but guys I have to tell you, your teachers may be different away from the classroom--we'll meet for coffee and discuss it some day) and the person who takes me for who I am, warts and all. I also thought about physical therapist
who didn't just treat my injuries this last year but got the mental side of it. I thought of myself as an athlete and when I couldn't train, when my body was not behaving as I wanted it to, a sort of depression set in. This part of my self was taken away and this was terrifying. So Molly came in at just the right time, when I was so low at times it was frightening, and helped heal my mind (through some amazing conversations that I will never forget) as well as my injuries. Things turned around--I was uplifted (salvaged? saved?) in a time where things looked pretty bleak to me. I learned alot about identity and self as well--don't pin too much on the external things, whether they are material or performances or relationshiops, because they can all be taken away from you in an instant. You really need to look in and see what you are all about and then find joy in that. Strive for excellence in what is true to yourself, but know what really matters and nurture that--the rest is just stuff. Now my friend here gives more to this friendship than I can possibly ever repay--she does it because it is who she is and that she can offer this type of support. She can look into this mind or heart or whatever of mine and relate to it--she's been in the same position when she studied in Minneapolis. Perhaps as she sees it there is a need here, and her responsibility (not in a covnentional prescribed duty sense, but in an opportunity sense--a human-hearted, compassionate sense) to help. She can do this and does this; few other's could relate in the same way, so she does. She could turn away, she could have never answered my initial e-mail, but she didn't and that has made all the difference. I am learning alot.
One comment about Westerners and India. Being in Puducherry (Pondi) has opened my eyes. After my housing issue, I spoke with the owner of my guest house. Besides these two incidents, this man has talked with me at length about India--it's intricacies and politics, culture, spirituality. After he apologized profusely for the what happened, he said something that really stuck with me. Westerners, they see India as exotic, but you know the reality. I've thought about this for days now. It has been in the forefront of my mind as I visit Pondi and Auroville. I'm going to indulge in some stereotyping now. I'm hypersensitive to the men with long hair and flip-flops in that skinny yoga build on mopeds with their girlfriends--women in flowing pants and tank tops, loose ponytails (ready to drop into an asana in a moment's notice!). They see the ashrams and the yoga culture in India. They pass the poverty and the people, but pull up to their modern hotels or sojourn in an ashram. This is the exotic. Now I can't say that I'm different--I live in a modern apartment, I have my Wi-Fi and access to Western food if I want it, and I've been to an ashram for a yoga retreat--but it just kind of irritates the crap out of me now. I am probably coming across as a complete jerk and I shouldn't be so judgmental--seriously, who am I? I've been here for a month now and have worked in a traditional Indian school and lived in a neighborhood where Westerners are as common as snow but that hardly puts me in position to condemn anyone else's choices. Maybe this is the acculturation period--sort of getting used to India and it's rhythms. I guess without the harshness it's just a milestone in my journey here. Live and let live. Converse and share the experience--that's probably all I can do. The ethical dimension of knowledge? Back to ToK land again... Certitude this way, visitiors' center that way.
Monday, October 4, 2010
Land of Butterflies and Dragonflies; Kingdom of the Elephant and the Mansion of the Snake
Friday, October 1, 2010
Barefoot in the ashram
I arrived early--sped by car from Coimbatore to the ashram for a retreat that my friend has just said needs to be experienced without expectations. Checked with another participant here and he said he was told the same thing by his cousin. Seems to be pretty common--no answers, no reactions, don't set up expectations. Find this just piques my curiousity. Maybe that's the point. To learn you have to want it--there must be inquiry and desire.
The setting here is just startling--we're in the Velliangiri Foothills, spiritual territory. I have never seen land like this--lush green mountains, coconut palms (forests of them), thousands of dragonflies and butterflies everywhere. Their flight is mesmerizing and I watch them for long moments, captivated with the dance, rhythms and colors. Find myself just breathing deeper here. It's so quiet compared to Chennai (many things are quieter than Chennai mind you), so fresh an green--lotus flowers scent the air all around me. In my homesick moments India gets to me--the noise, the chaos, not entirely understanding the rules--but here I feel so at ease and like my head can just let go. It's the green, the hush of the breeze, the scent of the air--flowers, wet earth. I may never want to go back to Chennai.
A trek outside
We explored the temples at the ashram this afternoon and then headed outside into the surrouding countryside. I wish that I'd brought my camera--palms, farm land, ancient trees, huts, cows with painted horns...beautiful. We forded a stream and as we walked a few meeters downstream we saw three snakes fighting to get out of a pool created by a dam. and A few more meters away two children played in the grass outside their house. Each person reacted the same--protect the kids. This raises some questions about the role of the individual and their responsibility to act. As we were thinking about what to do and getting increasingly uncomfortable in our inaction, the sky opened up and we were hit with the type of rain that only falls in the tropics--sudden, furious and long-lasting. Our road turned to thick red mud. A few people had umbrellas, I had a rain coat and became the mobile phone porter. One of my friends shared an umbrella with another hiker. Soon his companion offered to hold it for him. Then his companion disappeared. Poor Ravi was left to hike back without shelter and wondering if he'd ever see it again. We took a shortcut through a farmer's path, and as we headed back on to the ashram property the roads were all under inches of water--they looked like streams. They feed us well after the trek and we all start to get to know each other--mix of old and young, singles and families. Only two westerners besides myself. One has lived at the ashram for the past 3 years. The other is Indian, but lives in London. My best friends so far are a spiritual-seeking engineer and a skeptic who is about to start work in California. Not sure what to expect. I'm getting a little hung up on the delivery. Lots of either-or statements and some misrepresentations of science. I can't exactly turn off the ToK side of me that gets all alert when I hear these types of things. It sort of is getting in the way--ironically enough--of trying to hear the message. Want to be receptive, but this might be more of an effort than I thought. Need to put aside the Zen filter, the ToK filter, the western filter and listen. If this is a part of the great conversation about spirituality or my own journey I'll need to put aside some things and be present. Judgment can always come later, but you can't rebuild the present moment. If you can't be in that moment, you just may miss something.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Conversation with Veena
Veena is a friend that I work with--she works at the school part time and teaches French at the Alliance Francias. Our discussion started about how her video production company (Voices of India) is pulling together a documentary about handicapped students. The project will pull together South Indian and Western filmmakers together to help fight stereotypes. Maybe it is just luck, but everyone I seem to meet is part of an NGO or working on some project to benefit someone less fortunate or someother worthy cause. Our discussion moved on to how the treatment of mentally handicapped children has changed in the past generation. The children used to be in come and received compassionate care from the family--they were a responsibility. Now the institutions have taken over. She commented how this is also being influenced by the changes in construction--the concrete apartments and smaller homes make caring for larger families more difficult. While many families may have an ancestral homestead that serves as a meeting spot, the early support when the child is young is vital.
Our conversation veered towards IB and the differences she noticed between her work within the curriculum and her classes outside the school with adults. Some of the differences were pretty pedestrian--no listening comprehension in IB, fewer materials. However, and this is what really opened my eyes and mind, she said the biggest difference was the lack of comparison between the home country and the Francophone countries--the curriculum is really only focused on France and its former colonies. Veena continued that there needs to be a cultural component--both Indian and French. Where do learn about their own culture? To know yourself is the only way to proceed. Through French, she told me, I've questioned alot--and now I know my culture and myself. She told me that she knew the Ionesco quote that I used in ToK--it's the question that enlightens. She then told me about when her father passed away and as part of the Hindu ritual surrounding the death of a parent she read the Garuda Puranam for 13 days. It was through this process that she really got to know herself--why study far away cultures when there is such a rich one here. For example, the investigation of ecology and nature conservancy is a mix of obligation and religious fear. However, when these are examined, there's a real profound link to the past and present.
Our conversation then ranged to the CBSE schools and she detailed her son's experience with the harshness in the classroom and how this affected him on assessments. He performed brilliantly in a different setting where assessments were treated more like learning tools instead of high-stakes exercises. Her comments sounded alot like what our district has been hearing from Dr. Thomas Guskey at the University of Kentucky. She noted that the more traditional approach is changing. She recommended that I visit Gurukul in Pune. In the gurukul tradition, the guru takes the child to develop skills--they are taught vedas and taught to be part of society as well as basic life skills (how to keep their surroundings clean, how to deal with people). In this model, the guru finds out what the child is interested in and then focuses on the development of these interests and knowledge. The teaching about subjects happens after the interest. The other unique thing that she pointed out is that the guru serves as a caring, involved adult who connects with the student and builds on what they are interested in. This last piece really got me thinking about what it means to teach and the role that we fulfill--or should or could fulfill to help our students learn.
Our last topic dealt with how culture is taught--and there are some really good schools that teach the culture--Chinmaya International Residential School performs pujas, for example. Other institutions may be international in their perspective, but they are not Indian--in this case the implication is that culture=spiritual. They cannot be separated here. She commented too that the scientific explanations that seem to dominate now have their own limitations. She stated that when ever a house is built, they must plant mango and coconut trees. Very little was done to examine why this was done, it's tradition. But now the students hear about environmentalism and begin to wonder why people do the traditions. In her opinion, this was a cyclical thing. Her last comment was that the state schools that teach Tamil, the students perform better. They hear Tamil all the time, they get the culture, the context and nuance--so much more than vocabulary. This in essence, makes the language a living thing--not a grammatical exercise and word lists.
Looking back at this conversation, again I can't help but see links to my project. Experiencing the awakening or a-ha moment. As a Westerner I don't look at our curriculum so critically--it's my culture so I miss what it would feel like to not be represented. It's like I don't even have to think about it, but now that it's pointed out to me I finally get it. I'm starting to work on what international really means.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Figuring things out--in two parts
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Back from Mamallapuram
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Sometimes a day happens for a reason
Monday, September 20, 2010
Ideas and Conversations
Morning, September 21--beat the alarm up, need to get some ideas down
I'm still a little sick--probably the fruit I ate. This always happens, I've been told, to newcomers. Just puts a kink in the workout schedule. Feel much better than I did this weekend.
I've been having a lot of conversations with people and wanted to summarize the content--some of this will be for my doctorate which I hope to start in the summer--but much of this is just processing and trying to understand all that has experienced. I invite comments especially for where I may have made generalizations that are inaccurate. My perspective is limited, but I am trying to understand this new place.
- The need for education: education is a means transcend problems of poverty, especially in the rural areas. If the population is better educated than this will help build a more equitable society and ease some of the problems experienced in India today. A couple people have wondered what will happen once the population becomes more prosperous and comfortable, though--will the tolerance and more group oriented mindset be diminished?
- The Indian education system: most people have talked with me about how Indian schools make for wonderful engineers, but not necessarily great creators or innovators. They go on to say that a lot of time and energy is spent on rote memorization and drilling for exams. One man, an engineer by training, stated that he could easily tell you the formulas and calculations to solve a problem, but not how they work or why they work. Some have gone so far to say that once this is addressed, then India will be the dominant economy. If this is combined with a more affluent and educated society, there may be fewer Indian professionals seeking employment outside of India.
- Religion: This is a tricky one to get my head around. Temples surround us as well as emblems and symbols of faith. While religion is not far from people's minds or reality--my students commenting that their belief that form matters more in poetry than emotion comes from their grounding in the couplets found in sacred texts, pigment on the body every day , acceptance of a new place (how do you feel about Chennai I asked a breakfast companion, "It is a city of God, and since God made it who am I to judge--it is and I accept it."--I had just met this person a moment ago)--there is also a frank secularism among some students and a tremendous amount of tolerance. This city has large temples, mosques and a basilica crammed into--despite what the population figure might indicate--not a very large place. In the autobiography of Adbul Kamal--the former president of India and father of their rocketry program--he discussed how a new teacher in his childhood separated him from his best friend in class because he was a Muslim and his friend was a Hindu. The father of the friend was the priest at the local temple and confronted the teacher, castigating him for spreading intolerance. I've been told more than once as well that it is not the religion of an individual that matters but the content of their character--this being linked to the primacy of relationships and some of the day-to-day hardships. You accept the person because you share in the difficulties and rely upon each other. If they are a good person, they are a good person--you participate in each other's festivals because they enrich your life, bring community together and they are part of your friend.
Need some sleep. Still recovering. I am learning a lot.